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CULTURED PEARLS Prized for their mystical luminosity and exquisite beauty, pearls have fascinated us through the ages. Pearls continue to intrigue us with their ethereal sheen and glorious radiance. Pearls are the perfect anniversary gift or wedding gift, and it is also the birthstone for June. The quality of a pearl, which determines it's price, is a combination of factors. The trick in judging two strands of pearls is to put them next to each other: the differences in roundness, luster, and skin surface will be clearly visible. The more perfectly round a pearl, the rarer the pearl, and the more valuable it will be. Anything not round is considered semi-round. The way to determine whether or not a pearl is perfectly round is to roll it across a table. If it rolls easily without wobbling, it is considered round. If it wobbles, it is considered semi-round. Semi-round pearls can be exquisite, and very interesting. Many women find the variation in shape extremely pleasing. Quality is divided into two criteria; skin surface and luster. The highest quality pearl has the smoothest skin, free of pits, bumps, scratches and cracks and has a magnificent mirror-like lustre. What are the differences between Freshwater, Akoya, Tahitian and South Sea cultured pearls?The simple answer to this question lies with the shell. Think about the difference between a chicken egg and a quail egg. The eggs differ because the animal that produces each egg is different. Sure, both are birds but the number of eggs produced along with the size, shape and flavor is dependant on the animal that lays it. Pearls, even though they are cultured, are organic gems. They are formed by a living creature and each shell produces a variety of pearl that is unique to the shell species. Primarily farmed in China, most cultured Freshwater pearls are cultivated in varieties of freshwater mussels such as Hyriopsis and Cristaria. Each shell can produce up to 100 pearls simultaneously. Over the past decade or so, improvements in production techniques have allowed farmers to produce up to 9.5mm with a fairly round shape. Freshwater cultured pearls are normally dyed and/or bleached and polished to enhance their appearance. With such a plentiful supply, prices of Freshwater pearls are much lower than other cultured pearls. Akoya cultured pearls are the pearls most people envision when you ask them to describe a pearl. Made famous by Kokichi Mikimoto, these gems are harvested from the Pinctada fucata martensii oyster. Each shell can produce up to 4 or 5 pearls at a time. Pearls grow between 2mm and 9mm with a culturing time between six to twelve months. Nacre thickness can range from 0.10 - 0.30mm. The appearance of Akoya cultured pearls are also normally enhanced by dying, polishing and/or bleaching. Akoya cultured pearls are not as plentiful nor are the shell as hearty as Freshwater cultured pearls; thus in terms of value, they are more expensive. Grown in the warm, tropical waters of French Polynesia, the Marshall, Cook and Solomon Islands, the Black Tahitian cultured pearl provides you with a sense of the exotic. Produced by the Pinctada margaritifera, or Black Lipped oyster, Tahitian pearls generally range from 8mm to 14mm; however some farms produce sizes up to 20mm. Each shell produces one pearl at a time. The shapes of these pearls vary from classic round, semi-round and drop to contemporary shapes like baroque and circle. The Tahitian government now requires a minimum nacre thickness of 0.80mm before pearls can be exported. However, pearls that are grown outside the region do not always meet this requirement. The color of most Tahitian pearls is natural. Primarily farmed off the coast of Northern Australia as well as Indonesia, Burma and the Phillippines, the South sea cultured pearl is truly a pearl that demands attention. Born from the Pinctada maxima oyster, South Sea pearls range in size from 10mm to 15mm. Larger sizes from 16mm to 20mm are available, however those are quite rare. The color of the South Sea pearl varies from a white pink, to silver pink, through to dark gold. The Pinctada maxima shell are primarily collected in the wild, and in countries like Australia, the government has strict quotas on how many shells per year can be collected. As the growing time for a South Sea cultured pearl is approximately two years, and each shell can only produce one pearl at a time, it is no wonder that these pearls are the rarest of all. The nacre thickness of South Sea pearls is approximately 50% of the diameter of the pearl. Thus, a 12mm pearl will begin with a bead nucleus of about 6mm. This creates a lustrous surface that provides durability and beauty that is unmatched. Nothing enhances the beauty of an individual the way a pearl can. The luster adds the glow of youth and provides a sense of purity to the wearer. Pearls are the perfect complement for all brides. Pearls are a precious gem that need special care to keep them glowing for years to come. CARING FOR YOUR PEARLS Apply perfume and cosmetics before you put on your pearl jewelry. When you take your pearl jewelry off, wipe it with a soft cloth to remove the natural oils from your skin as well as perfume and cosmetics. Pearls are an organic substance and can absorb these materials; in time, this may dull their appearance. Keep each pearl jewelry item wrapped separately, or in a separate compartment in your jewelry box when you store it away. This helps to avoid chipping the surface. Depending on how often you wear your pearls, they should be restrung occasionally. This will help to prevent breakage from threads that have become weakened from wear and tear, as well as by skin oils and cosmetics. Because fine strands of pearls are knotted between each and every pearl, even a break is not a catastrophe and you won't see your pearls rolling all over the floor, should an accident occur. Check the clasp on your strand of pearls, periodically, to be sure it closes securely. PEARL RESTRINGING Pearl and Bead restringing is one of the many services available at Shallow Jewelers. To learn more about the services available at Shallow Jewelers, visit our Full Service Jeweler page. |
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